Monday, 13 July 2015

A break in the Lakes

As a birthday treat for my other half we spent 3 nights away this weekend so we could spend a bit of quality time in the beautiful Lake District. Not exactly the other side of the country for us but we found a little cottage far enough away that it made it more of a worthwhile stay. Not so close that we felt we could just pop home! It was a break of many firsts, a first having to explore the minefield that is dog-friendly accommodation, a first up a mountain with a certain blonde German Shepherd, a first nose touch with a donkey...for the dog, not myself who has been nuzzled by a donkey once or twice a friendly way you understand! Anyway moving on...

So we stayed in a little place not too far from the motorbike honeypot that is Hartside, in the Eden Valley between the Lakes and the North Pennines. Sleepy quaint villages full of red sandstone houses and reddish drystone walls. Now normally we prefer to camp this time of year but as I've mentioned, this was a treat and for a good price I can manage that every now and again! Tip if you do want to stay up in the Lakes during the summer period, look for places a few miles outside of the National Park itself, we were about 20 or so miles out and it was worth travelling that bit further. Plus you escape all the touristy craziness during holiday season...oh and the hiked-up prices!

Gorgeous cottage just about big enough for the two of us and a large hairy dog. Admittedly Toby's shedding of hairs on a par length-wise with my own was always going to be a worry in someone else's house, we contemplated taking our own trusty vacuum cleaner but in fact forgot...fortunately the vac provided at the cottage coped admirably with the accumulation of blonde fur, thank goodness!

Toby teatime yet?
Our main aim of the trip was to conquer Helvellyn, the third highest peak in the Lakes, behind Scafell and Scafell Pike. Now despite living oop north all my life I am ashamed to admit I'd not been up a single peak in the Lakes! I've camped, walked between peaks and looked longingly at many a ridge but not actually got to the top of one. I spent many a weekend up Welsh mountains while studying at Aberystwyth uni a few years back (plug for the cracking Expedition Society!) and a couple in the Yorkshire Dales but the Lakes just hasn't happened for me. Until Friday! Weather looking a bit cloudy but with a very bright forecast ahead we set off in the old Landy to find a hopefully safe place to leave it. We arrived at Thirlmere, the reservoir in the valley below Helvellyn, and found a little car park we'd scouted on the OS map. We were however somewhat taken aback to find out we needed to fork out £ POUND coins!...for all day parking! Now I know we're from Yorkshire where all are renowned for being tight with their dollar but SEVEN POUNDS??? Daylight robbery doesn't even cut it. And who carries that many pound coins with them anyway? After a well deserved rant and shaking of fist we both speedily came to the conclusion that this just would not do. I'd spotted a campsite just down the road that we'd passed a couple of minutes before and suggested we see if the farmer would be happy for us to dump the Landy in a quiet corner for a small fee. Sure enough he was more than obliging and everyone was happy.

Satisfied we embarked on our mountain climbing. Got lost within 10 minutes of starting due to a re-routing of a path we'd picked on the map but it didn't deter us for long and after a friendly point in the right direction we were off on the right track. Straight into a field with a horse and donkey!

Friendly Eeyore
The footpath very quickly gained in elevation, i.e. bloody steep! Bit of a shock to the system this only being our first mountain of the year...and yes we're already halfway through, it's not the best track record! Best mention we hadn't actually got on to Helvellyn by this point...Cue much panting in heat despite it only being half past 10 in the morning and rather a few stops and starts...Toby was more than happy to lie down at every opportunity, despite him having double the leg power he is just a little more hairy than us so we let him off. We had to stop so often to fully enjoy the incredible views behind us you see ;)

As we emerged from the bracken covered hillside we spotted our first hardy Herdwick sheep of the day, delightfully fuzzy creatures, only found on Lake district fells. And their even fuzzier lambs, like reverse with endearing whitened eyepatches and muzzles!

Watching Toby very closely!
After a delayer/relayer/delayer and a sandwich munch we finally reached the top of the saddle between Stybarrow Dodd and Raise where the sun and blue skies joined us, fantastic! The views across to Glenridding were gorgeous and we still had a fair climb ahead. But having gained a lot of height up the steep bracken hillside I was relieved and surprised to hear we were actually more than halfway, woop!

Me in my "natural habitat" behind a camera according to Chris!
Toby at this point was one very happy dog, he'd already found a paw-spa (a.k.a BOG) and was surrounded by sheep...what's not to like in Tobyland?

I call these Toby's foxy gloves!
Once we'd got to the top of Raise (883m above sea level) we were then treated to yes more incredible sunshine and racing fluffy clouds, feeling very lucky indeed. The peak of Helvellyn was naturally obscured by cloud, well you can't have it all, but Striding Edge was coming into view every so often. Still on our to do list but having the dog, who is notably clumsy, we thought it would be a bit much for his first mountain. That and the fact the chap who owned our cottage was enthusiastically telling us how five people had already fallen to their deaths this year alone...including his next door neighbour who was a well experienced hiker. Scary and very sad. We safely looked on from a distance at how tiny the people braving it looked and wished them well. One day hopefully we'll master that challenge too!

Striding Edge
Not far to go now, cloud and wind awaits! It was already blowing hard up there, my eyes were streaming like mad...

Path into the clouds
I might as well mention at this point just how pleasantly surprised we were with the lack of people we met going up and down Helvellyn. Those that know me will probably say I'm quite a sociable person but when we're out walking I love the feeling of having the place to ourselves. Just passing the odd hiker suits me very well indeed, trundling behind crowds of people all trying to reach the top at the same time does not do it for me in the slightest, and I'm sure I'm not alone. Another top tip, climb mountains on weekdays! Probably went without saying really...yes moving on then.

Although we did happen upon one very friendly chap who proceeded to rant about a £4 car parking charge at where he'd left his car...not just us then! He was suitably appalled at our finding an even more expensive place up the road, SEVEN HUNDRED PENCE!

The last view just before the top before becoming fully shrouded in cloud...

So yey, we did it! Helvellyn, 949 metres asl, good stuff. Felt higher, feel the calf burn, feel it! We tucked in behind a shelter, ate the rest of our lunch and started the descent. Out of the cloud and into the sunshine again, I'd got chilled very quickly and had to dig out more layers despite having only stopped for 10 minutes or so. Luckily we were prepared but then I do get cold easily, blessed with female lack of circulation....

Soon warmed up though once moving again after repeatedly being told off by Chris for taking pictures and freezing my hands in the process...owt for a picture...always worth the pain. I have a terrible memory, hence the need for lots of pictures...and a blog for me to fill in the good times!

Looking down onto Thirlmere
 Toby soon got bored of map-reading, kisses clearly more fun!

And more views, good old splash in a waterfall to cool down.

So we had our route all planned, a nice easy permissive path back to where we were parked up, nice and eas....oh, what's that United Utilities? Timber harvesting you say? Closed permissive path to walkers you say? Ah. Now that's not ideal...Options... walk along the advisably dangerous A591 (no pavements and busy) or add another 6km to our walk when we're already ready for bed? Tried the road, got about 10 steps down it and thought better of it...Extra 6km it is then. Oof!

A nice easy path, or so we thought, following the edge of Thirlmere... Nice for a bit...then becoming increasingly more overgrown with very tall bracken and bramble...not so fun when you're tired and hot at the end of what has been a brilliant but loooong day.

After managing to stick with the path for a fair old way we decided to just head onto the quiet road running parallel to save time as it was starting to get a tad late in't day for such shenanigans. We'd got a little tired of this, especially as Toby had found yet another bog and had no choice but to repeatedly run back and forth in front of us on a very narrow path between bracken meaning progress was not as quick as we liked! Not that our legs could really propel us much faster at this stage...

There is a dog in there somewhere...
Pig and muck springs to mind...
Beautiful views of Thirlmere to keep us going
Eventually we made it back, 12 miles walked and a total of 1177 metres climbed...WHAT a day! Very achey and ready for our tea we sank into comfy oblivion and watched the Bourne Legacy, very good film if you're partial to an action movie!

Suffice to say our next day was a lot more laid back, socialising Toby in the dog-friendliest town of Keswick, market stalls and walking shops...and many many dogs! Great fun and a very happy much needed little holiday :)

Speak soon!

Meg x

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